What to do if coral cherry has worms (pictures of what to do if coral cherry has worms)

1. What to do if coral cherry trees are infested with insects – Pictures

Main varieties

Coral Bean (Beijing); Jade Coral (Japan); Pomegranate (Mian County, Shaanxi); Pepper (Leibo, Sichuan); Winter Coral (Anjiang, Hunan).

2. What to do if coral cherry trees are infested with insects

Coral cherry trees should be pruned promptly during management. After potting and planting, pinch off the tops of the branches to conserve nutrients, encourage branching, and create a fuller, fuller plant. Later, each spring, pruning should be performed by pruning off two-thirds of the previous year’s branches and leaves and pinching off new shoots. After viewing the fruit, remove the fruit and replace the soil. This will reduce nutrient consumption and encourage faster growth of new branches.

3. What to do if coral cherry has insects (pictures and video)

Coral cherry leaves are most susceptible to leaf spot, which is caused by fungal and viral infections. After contracting leaf spot, the internal tissue of the leaves will necrotize, causing the leaves to turn yellow or fall off. In addition to diseases, there are also insect pests. Red spider mites and scale insects must be prevented early. They will suck the leaves and branches, causing permanent damage. Usually, some chili water or garlic water is used when watering. The strong smell can keep pests away.

4. Coral cherry leaves have small white insects

Coral cherry (original variant) is an upright, branching small shrub, up to 2 meters tall, and the whole plant is smooth and hairless. Leaves are alternate, narrowly oblong to lanceolate, 1-6 cm long and 0.5-1.5 cm wide, with pointed or obtuse apex, narrowly cuneate base extending downward to form a petiole, margin entire or wavy, smooth and glabrous on both sides, midrib convex below, 6-7 pairs of lateral veins, more obvious below; petiole about 2-5 mm long, cannot be clearly separated from the leaf blade. Flowers are mostly solitary, rarely forming a scorpion-shaped inflorescence, absent or nearly absent, borne outside the axils or nearly opposite leaves, with pedicels about 3-4 mm long. Flowers are small, white, about 0.8-1 cm in diameter. The calyx is green, about 4 mm in diameter, and 5-lobed, each lobed about 1.5 mm long. The corolla tube is recessed within the calyx, less than 1 mm long, with a limb about 5 mm long and 5 ovate lobes about 3.5 mm long and 2 mm wide. Filaments are less than 1 mm long, and the anthers are yellow, oblong, about 2 mm long. The ovary is nearly round, about 1 mm in diameter, with a short style about 2 mm long and a truncate stigma. The berry is orange-red, 1-1.5 cm in diameter, with a persistent calyx and a stalk about 1 cm long with a swollen apex. The seeds are disc-shaped, flat, and about 2-3 mm in diameter. Flowering occurs in early summer, and fruiting occurs in late autumn.

5. How to deal with small white worms in coral cherry

1. Overwatering

Coral beans are not drought-tolerant and are afraid of waterlogging. Therefore, excessive watering during maintenance will cause its roots to rot, which will cause the flowers of the coral beans to fall directly and affect the later results. During the maintenance process, you only need to keep the coral bean pot soil basically moist. The amount of water each time should not be too large. If you follow the correct watering method, its flowers will not fall directly.

2. Uncertain fertilization

If you fertilize coral beans irregularly during maintenance, it will also cause it to fall directly after flowering. Fertilize coral beans evenly, choose a fixed time and a fixed amount of fertilizer. The correct way to fertilize coral beans is to apply thin fertilizer once a month. Since it is not tolerant to poor soil, thin fertilizer should not be interrupted, so as not to make its soil too poor. 3. Failure to pollinate coral beans immediately after flowering can cause them to drop. Unpollinated flowers are more fragile. Pollination is crucial after flowering to prevent them from dropping and ensure they continue to produce fruit. Pollination is typically done manually, as self-pollination is incomplete. 4. Lack of light: Coral beans require a certain amount of photosynthesis after flowering to promote optimal blooming. If left in the shade after flowering, the flowers will drop. The best solution is to relocate the plant to a location with diffused light after flowering to prevent them from dropping. 6. What to do if coral cherry blossoms have insects (with pictures): Small white moths (about the size of sesame seeds): These are likely whiteflies. Spray with pesticides like cypermethrin or imidacloprid. This flower is called coral cherry; you can search on Baidu.

7. Pests of Coral Cherry

       1. Select branches

       Choose one-year-old branches without diseases and insect pests. Cut them into 15-20cm long pieces with about 3 nodes. The upper incision should be flat and the lower incision should be oblique.

       2. Cutting time

       Spring, summer and autumn are all acceptable, but spring is the best.

        3. Cutting medium

        Choose a non-nutritious material with good moisture retention. Perlite and vermiculite are recommended. Sand and decomposed sawdust are also acceptable.

        4. Start cutting

        Insert the cutting branch into one-third of the substrate, leaving two nodes on the ground. Compact it and then water it thoroughly.

       Under a temperature of 20-25°C, it will take 15 to 20 days for the roots to form and 30 to 40 days for the plants to be potted.

8. Disease and Pest Control of Coral Cherry

, Water Management:

Overwatering and prolonged waterlogging in the potting soil will cause a lack of oxygen in the soil, leading to the rot of some fibrous roots. This weakens the ability to absorb water and fertilizer, causing the young leaves to turn light yellow and the leaves and flowers to gradually turn dark yellow. Immediately control watering and stop fertilizing. Loosen the soil frequently to ensure good ventilation. In severe cases, remove the entire plant from the pot and place it in a pile of dry soil to allow water to seep out quickly. Wait until the drooping branches and leaves have recovered before repotting.

Underwatering, or long-term half-watering or missed watering will cause the leaves to evaporate more water than they absorb, resulting in a water shortage and yellowing of the leaves. Yellowing occurs when leaves gradually turn yellow, dry up, and fall off from the lower leaves upward. In severe cases, the petioles may droop and wilt. Immediately upon noticing this condition, move the pot to a cool, shady location, spray the leaves with water, and water sparingly. As the stems and leaves gradually regain their strength, gradually increase the amount of watering. Overwatering at this stage can cause plasmolysis, damaging the protoplasm and potentially killing the flower. 2. Fertilization: Excessive fertilization, especially nitrogen fertilizers with insufficient phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, can easily cause leaf yellowing. This manifests as thickened new leaves with uneven, uneven surfaces, and older leaves gradually turning yellow and falling off. In severe cases, the leaf tips may dry out, or even the entire leaf may become scorched. Fertilize immediately, increase watering, and allow the fertilizer to drain out of the drainage holes. Alternatively, immediately invert the pot, remove some of the old soil, rinse with water, replace with fresh soil, and repot the plant.

Insufficient fertilization, especially long-term failure to apply nitrogen fertilizer or change the potting soil, will lead to a lack of nitrogen nutrition in the soil, resulting in weak branches and leaves, thin and yellow leaves. It is necessary to promptly overturn the pot, remove the plant, replace it with a larger pot, fill it with new loose and fertile potting soil, and replant it. After watering thoroughly, place it in a semi-dark place to slow down the seedling growth. After it resumes growth, apply a thin liquid fertilizer or compound fertilizer.

3. Soil pH:

The soil is alkaline: When planting flowers that prefer acidic soil in the north, such as camellia, orchid, Michelia, cassia, and osmanthus, because the soil in most areas of the north contains more saline and alkali, the above-mentioned flowers and trees will gradually lose their green color and turn yellow after a period of cultivation due to the lack of soluble iron that can be absorbed by the flowers. At this time, apply 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution intermittently, alternating with 0.1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution to cure “alkaline yellowing.” Potassium dihydrogen phosphate also contains phosphorus and potassium, which promotes flower bud differentiation and improves flower quality. Acidic soil: Southern my country has red soil, which is acidic or slightly acidic. Magnesium is easily lost from the soil. Magnesium deficiency often causes yellowing of leaves, especially on older leaves and between the veins. Application of calcium magnesium phosphate fertilizers can affect plants like Dieffenbachia, causing leaves to yellow and fall off. If the room temperature falls below 5°C, most flowers that prefer warmth and fear cold will also be affected, with leaves, flowers, and fruits turning yellow, drying up, and easily falling off. Therefore, after bringing the plants indoors, apply or spray a 0.1% to 0.3% magnesium sulfate solution. To improve acidic soil, increase the application of well-rotted organic fertilizers and lime. Applying a small amount of lime not only neutralizes soil acidity but also promotes the decomposition of organic fertilizers.

Four. Sunlight:

Excessive sunlight: In summer, flowers that prefer partial shade and are afraid of high temperatures, such as asparagus fern, spider plant, Clivia, cyclamen, and fuchsia, should be placed in direct sunlight. This can easily cause tender leaf buds or leaf edges to burn or entire leaves to turn yellow. Immediately move them to a well-ventilated, cool place for cultivation.

Insufficient sunlight: If light-loving flowers are kept indoors in insufficient light for a long time, their growth will weaken, their leaves will become thin and yellow, and they will not bloom or bloom very rarely. These flowers should be placed outdoors in a sunny or semi-shaded area, and then moved indoors for viewing after they bloom. 5. Temperature and Humidity: Humidity: In winter in northern China, heating or coal heating can cause dry indoor air. Some flowers that prefer moist air, such as orchids and monstera, are prone to dry leaf tips or scorched leaf edges, scorched leaves, and curled edges. Branches and leaves should be frequently sprayed with warm water close to room temperature, and a basin of clean water should be placed on the radiator or stove to increase indoor humidity. For some precious flowers, it is best to cover them with plastic film at night and use the cover to prevent partial scorching of leaves. Temperature: Winter in northern China is cold. If the room temperature is below 8°C, some flowers that prefer high temperatures, such as poinsettia, croton, bougainvillea, peacock bamboo, and variegated flowers, will need to adjust the indoor temperature accordingly.

VI. Pests and Diseases:

Infection by fungi, viruses, and other pathogens can cause various leaf spot diseases, which can lead to localized necrosis of leaf tissue, resulting in yellowish or yellow-green patches, or even entire leaves turning yellow and falling. Infestation by pests like spider mites and scale insects can also damage chlorophyll, causing small yellow-white spots on leaves, or yellowing and falling leaves. Spraying should be done promptly upon discovery.

9. What to Do if Coral Cherry Trees Have Infestations

Pruning: Generally, prune 3-5 times. The first step is to remove buds with poor growth directions and weak buds in double buds after flowering. The second step is to thin out overcrowded branches after flowering, combined with flower thinning.

The third step is to prune vigorously growing branches after the fruit cores have hardened, to promote the development of secondary shoots and increase the fruiting area. In early and late autumn, excessive secondary shoots should be cut back or thinned, and fruit-bearing branches should be pinched to control their growth and promote flower bud differentiation.

10. What to do if coral cherry trees have whiteworms

Wintering methods: Wrap with plastic film, straw, or other insulating materials. Regardless of the season, ensure adequate light and regular indoor ventilation to ensure a safe winter.

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