1. What is the process for planting a lawn?
1.
Logistics and construction preparation. As the saying goes, “before the troops move, the food and fodder must go first.” Making sure the stoves are lit, the accommodations are comfortable, and there is water and electricity, as well as construction tools and materials, is usually done by a vanguard group in batches over a period of about three days.
2.
The designer provides on-site briefings on the landscape effects and technical requirements to the client and the construction company. This step is often omitted, perhaps because the client has the final say on the aesthetics, but the construction company often ignores your instructions.
3.
Division of construction processes and material inventory.
2. Lawn Establishment Techniques and Methods
After sowing, lightly rake the soil with a long-handled hand-toothed rake to cover the seeds. If the soil is dry, water it and keep it moist to facilitate seed germination. Fresh grass seeds take 7-14 days to germinate after sowing. When the grass seedlings reach 5cm in height, mow them once every 2.5cm with a rotary mower to promote tillering.
3. What is the process for establishing a lawn?
1. First, remove all clods of soil, rocks, fallen leaves, and other debris from the lawn. Then, level the soil to ensure a relatively flat surface.
2. Next, cut the turf into appropriately sized pieces and lay them on the lawn. Be careful not to stretch or overlap the turf. Fit the pieces together like a puzzle, leaving a 0.5cm gap between each piece.
3. Finally, after laying the turf, water it appropriately and clean the area where it was laid.
4. What does lawn establishment mean?
Seeding method: Most lawns can be sown in spring or autumn, with late autumn sowing ensuring uniform emergence. After sowing, rake the ground in horizontal and vertical strips with a spiked rake, then use a wooden roller to compact the soil. After sowing, cover the ground with straw to retain moisture. 2. The Paving Method: Transplanting the turf like laying tiles to another location can quickly establish a lawn, but it requires more investment and labor. 3. The Stem Broadcasting Method is suitable for species such as Bermudagrass, Carpetgrass, Zoysia, Creeping Bentgrass, and Buffalo Grass. It is best done in early spring, but can also be done during the rainy season. First, cut the runners from the lawn into small sections 5-8 cm long. Each section must have a single node. Then, broadcast in rows or broadcast. 4. The Rooting Method is suitable for grasses that lack stems but have numerous tillers, such as Cottonwood and Velvet Grass. It is best done in early spring or the rainy season. Trim away some of the fibrous roots, group 2-3 seedlings together, tear them apart, and plant them in holes or strips at a consistent spacing. Cover with soil as you plant, preferably to a thickness of about 2 cm. After covering, gently compact the soil and water thoroughly. Generally, the simplest, most cost-effective method for growing turf is to broadcast the stems and plant the roots.
5. What are the procedures for establishing a lawn?
In rural areas, the lawn depends on the landowner’s consent. First, consult with the landowner for approval before going to the Land and Resources Bureau to complete the relevant procedures.
6. What are the procedures for establishing a lawn?
Engineering Survey and Layout
1. Inspect and inspect the foundation work. Remove any debris from the foundation. Repair and level any uneven areas promptly. The construction site must be thoroughly clean to ensure a clean environment and high-quality construction. Carry out surveying and layout according to the design drawings. 2. Use a steel tape measure to measure whether the surrounding facilities meet the size of the sports field. If there are any inappropriate areas, make modifications. 3. Paving: (1) Lay non-woven fabrics along the length of the field. The arrangement direction must be 90 degrees to the arrangement direction of the lawn. The non-woven fabrics must be firmly bonded. (2) Determine the lines of the field according to the length and width specifications of the lines on the drawing. Check that the lines after bonding must be straight. (3) Lay the turf on the non-woven fabric according to the specifications. The turf must overlap by 3-8mm. (4) Cut the overlapping turf with a cutting knife. The seam should not be larger than 3mm. (5) Lay the seam cloth under the cutting area, brush the joint glue on the joint surface, and joint it after it is dry to the touch and knock it firmly. Lawn bonding process Preparation before bonding: 1. The bottom surface of the turf to be bonded, non-woven fabric, seam cloth, etc. must be clean and the surface must be dry and free of moisture. 2. The ambient temperature should be above 5℃ for construction. It is not suitable to construct in rainy or plum rain weather, otherwise it will take too long to bond or even cause non-stick phenomenon. Specific construction process: (1) Glue application: Use a brush to apply glue evenly on the surface. Do not apply glue repeatedly, otherwise it will cause bubbles or even fall. Apply glue to the base cloth, strictly control the thickness of the glue, pay attention to the appropriate glue application speed, and apply glue to the two bonding surfaces separately. (2) Bonding: Reasonably control the air-drying time according to the actual influence of temperature, humidity, air pressure and other conditions at the time. Generally, it is appropriate to allow the glue to dry 80% to 90% within 10-30 minutes after application and not stick to the touch. When bonding, it is required to align and bond firmly at one time. Do not move the bonded objects back and forth after bonding. (3) Pressurization: After bonding, remove the debris on the surface and use a special rubber hammer to hammer hard from the bonding point to both sides to make the surface fully contacted and more firmly bonded. (4) Curing: The curing time is generally three days, and the final strength test is generally ten days. Therefore, during the curing period, it is necessary to pay close attention to its maintenance and avoid excessive exposure to the sun, water immersion and movement to achieve the best bonding condition. (5) After bonding, before spreading quartz sand and rubber particles, the turf fragments on the field should be cleaned. Quartz sand paving process 1. Sand filling process: Quartz sand is used to fix the grass seedlings inside the grass seedlings to prevent them from falling over. Sand is filled to within 1 cm of the remaining height of the grass seedlings. Rubber particles are spread on the surface of the grass seedlings and spread evenly. Sand with edges should not be poured between the grass seedlings to prevent athletes from being injured. 2. When spreading, use manual one-line spreading. 3. Quartz sand and rubber particles can only be laid after the artificial turf materials are installed. 4. When laying quartz sand, divide the application area into small areas of less than one square meter using the concept of integral method, and then fill in 25% of the standard amount of quartz sand. 5. Check whether the quartz sand is flat and sufficient when it is laid. If it is insufficient, fill it in as much as possible. (1) Any impurities found during paving must be removed immediately to ensure quality. (2) After the quartz sand is laid, use a hard brush to brush it back and forth to make the quartz sand fall fully and densely. (3) Then fill the quartz sand with rubber particles, and apply it in the same way as quartz sand. 7. What are the two common methods for planting lawns? White clover has the advantages of long green period, extensive management, strong invasiveness, low water demand and good ornamental effect. Since 2003, the planting area of white clover in the North China Oilfield Mining Area has continued to increase, gradually replacing the cold-season lawn and becoming the main lawn plant. The planting and maintenance management technology of white clover lawn in the North China Oilfield Mining Area is introduced as follows. 1 Morphological characteristics and biological learning properties White clover (Trifolium repens l.), also known as white clover, is a perennial herb of the Leguminosae family. The main root is short, the lateral roots are well-developed, and there are many tubercles. The stem is solid, creeping and hairless, 30 to 60 cm long, with many branches at the base. It roots at the nodes and grows new stolons to spread in all directions, with strong invasiveness. The leaves are trifoliate, with slender petioles, obovate or nearly obovate heart-shaped leaflets, dark green, rounded or concave at the tip, cuneate at the base, and finely serrated at the edges. The stipules are elliptical and clasp the stem. The flowers are numerous, densely packed into head inflorescences, born in the axils of leaves, with long peduncles that rise above the leaf surface, and the small flowers are white or pink. The pods are small and long, with 3 to 4 seeds per pod. The seeds are small, heart-shaped, yellow or brownish yellow, and the weight of 1,000 seeds is 0.5 to 0.7 g. White clover is drought-resistant, cold-resistant, barren-resistant, shade-tolerant, and has no strict requirements on soil. It grows quickly and has the advantages of early greening and late withering.
2 Planting of White Clover Lawns White clover lawns are mostly planted by direct seeding, and asexual propagation can also be used for small areas. 2.1 Adjustment of Soil pH Value The suitable pH value for the growth of white clover is 6.0~7.0, while the soil in the mining area of the North China Oilfield is saline-alkali soil with a pH value of around 8.0. Therefore, before planting white clover, the pH value of the soil must be adjusted first. The pH value of the soil is usually adjusted by applying organic fertilizer plus ferrous sulfate or applying organic fertilizer plus sulfur powder. Organic fertilizers generally have a strong buffering effect on the acidity and alkalinity of the soil. In addition, organic fertilizers can also increase the organic matter content of the soil, which is conducive to the formation of a granular structure in the soil and is not easy to compact. In addition, the fertilizer effect of organic fertilizers can be slowly released, so that the lawn can remain green for a longer period of time. Applying a certain amount of ferrous sulfate or sulfur powder at the same time as applying organic fertilizer can adjust the soil pH to between 6.0 and 7.0 in a relatively short period of time. 2.2 Soil disinfection In order to eliminate pathogens and underground pests in the soil, before sowing, it is necessary to select appropriate disinfectants to disinfect the soil according to the actual situation. 1%~3% ferrous sulfate solution is commonly used to spray the soil, and the dosage is 2kg~3kg/100㎡. Do not cover or turn the pesticide into the soil after application. There must be a period of volatilization stage to avoid pesticide damage. In order to prevent and control underground pests such as white grubs, mole crickets, and cutworms, pesticides such as furadan can be added when applying organic fertilizer. 0.25kg of furadan can be mixed into each ton of organic fertilizer. 2.3 Plowing the land, clearing weeds, and soil sedimentation If the planting site does not need to change the soil, the planting site should be plowed in the autumn of the first year, and the plowing depth should be about 30cm. When plowing, debris such as dead branches and rotten grass should be cleared away, especially the roots of weeds. The main purpose of plowing the land is to clear weeds and turn hidden pests and diseases to the surface to freeze or sun-dry to death. If the planting site is new soil, the land needs to be roughly leveled before winter, and then flooded with water to settle the soil. It is best to settle it three times in a row. 2.4 Applying base fertilizer, plowing, leveling, and rolling Before planting white clover in the spring of the second year, base fertilizer should be applied to the planting site. Base fertilizer is generally organic fertilizer, such as fully decomposed human and animal feces, urine, and stable manure, etc., and the dosage is generally 1kg/㎡. If conditions permit, it is better to mix a certain amount of compound fertilizer when applying base fertilizer, with a dosage of 10~15kg/mu. After evenly spreading the organic fertilizer mixed with compound fertilizer on the surface, plow it to a depth of 20~25cm. Then perform rough leveling to make the entire planting site basically flat without ups and downs. After rough leveling, it’s best to water the soil thoroughly. This not only lays the foundation for fine soil preparation (facilitating workability and leveling), but also increases soil moisture, providing sufficient water for seed germination. Because white clover seeds are small, seedlings grow slowly, and their roots don’t penetrate deeply into the soil, fine soil preparation should be performed after rough leveling, once the soil is neither too dry nor too wet. Fine soil preparation involves breaking up large clumps of soil and raking low areas to ensure the entire surface is flat and free of clods. After soil preparation, the planting site should be rolled to compact the loose topsoil, increase capillary porosity, and reduce evaporation. Depending on soil texture and moisture content, a 200kg, 500kg, or 1000kg roller can be used. Rolling should be repeated one to two times to level the planting site and fully prepare it for white clover sowing.
2.5 Seed treatment Before sowing white clover, overall arrangements should be made. Seed treatment should be carried out while land preparation is being carried out. Ensure that land preparation and seed treatment are completed at the same time so that sowing can be carried out immediately after land preparation is completed to avoid evaporation of water in the sowing ground and drying of the surface. White clover seeds should be treated before sowing. Generally, cold water soaking is used for germination. After germination, the seeds can germinate 2 to 3 days earlier and the seedlings will emerge in an even pattern. Cold water soaking is to soak the seeds in water three times the volume of the seeds. The soaking time is generally 10 to 12 hours. If the soaking is done in the sun or other places with higher temperatures, the soaking time should be shorter. The degree of soaking should be such that the seeds fully absorb water, the white radicle can be seen, but the radicle does not break through the seed coat. 2.6 Sowing White clover is mostly sown in spring, generally in mid-April, and it is best to sow on cloudy and windless days. The sowing amount is 10 to 15 g/㎡, and the sowing method is broadcasting. Because white clover seeds are small, dry fine sand, three times the seed volume, is generally added for more even spreading. When broadcasting, spread the seeds evenly, ideally three times in different directions. After broadcasting, inspect the entire field for any missed areas, especially in corners. If any are missed, reseed them immediately. After broadcasting, lightly rake the topsoil with a wire rake to a depth of 1-2 cm. Covering with soil is also an option, but it’s labor-intensive and difficult to control, so it’s generally not used in practice. Roll and then spray with water. It’s best to create a mist to avoid splashing. The amount of water should be sufficient to fully moisten the topsoil (approximately 5 cm) without leaving visible water.
8. Components of Lawn Establishment
Specific Process
1. Positioning and Laying Out:
Upon arrival, the construction location plan should be reviewed on-site. Secondly, the on-site coordinate points and leveling points will be inspected and accepted. If any significant errors are found, a solution should be jointly discussed and only after confirmation can formal positioning be carried out.
A control coordinate grid and leveling points will be established on-site. Leveling points are introduced from permanent leveling points. Leveling points should be protected to ensure that the leveling points are not damaged during the laying out of lines, compaction of the excavation and fill base, the formation of a gravel (concrete) cushion layer, and surface paving.
2. Establish a plane control network and an elevation control network.
The building grid should be designed on the master plan after the site is leveled. The design principles are as follows:
The main axis of the grid should be located on the centerline of the site whenever possible. The endpoints of its longitudinal and transverse axes should extend to the edges of the site as much as possible to facilitate grid expansion and ensure uniform accuracy.
The side length of the grid should not be too long, generally less than 100 meters. For ease of calculation and memorization, it is best to use multiples of 10 meters.
The axis control piles should be projected on the edge of the grid as much as possible.
After the grid is fully surveyed, the method of positioning all buildings at once is used to test its accuracy. This is a better test method for grids that have not been adjusted. The surveying and setting method of the building grid is to first survey the main axis, then encrypt the grid, and perform adjustment according to the wire survey.
The elevation control network is the basic basis for the surveying and transmission of the elevations of above-ground and underground buildings (structures) within the construction site. The density of the elevation control network points should be appropriate. The measurement method for this project can be leveling.
When the length and width of the site are greater than 100 m, more than 4 elevation starting points can be arranged within the site to form a closed leveling route with the known elevation points for measurement.
Garden landscaping projects mainly include:
Garden earthwork balancing and sorting, garden civil construction, garden decoration construction, carpentry, steel structure, small landscape architecture, large and small tree planting, shrub planting, flower planting, and greening maintenance projects.
Garden road construction procedures:
Surveying and positioning → earthwork excavation and transportation → block stone cushion layer → fine stone concrete leveling → pouring concrete foundation → surface paving → earthwork backfill → finished product maintenance.
Extended information:
1. Scientific management and maintenance are required: establish a set of computer software for garden landscaping management system. Its contents include: greening archives, data collection, analysis and diagrams, that is, combining multimedia technology to achieve dynamic browsing, implement mechanized maintenance and scientific management. Water and fertilizer management is the core of tree management, and watering should be sufficient and thorough at one time.
2. Pay attention to shaping, pruning and weeding. Pruning mature trees at a certain height can stimulate the germination of latent buds hidden within the epidermis, forming young branches and promoting rejuvenation. Weeds can be controlled by hand pulling or spraying herbicides.
3. The principle of “prevention first, integrated control” for pests and diseases is adopted. Integrated control measures include plant quarantine, biological control, cultural practices, and chemical control. As mentioned earlier, tree species should be selected to complement each other. Avoid planting two parasitic trees near each other. Planting apples, pears, and other trees next to pines and cypresses can easily lead to rust. Street trees should also be rotated at regular intervals to provide isolation when diseases occur.
9. Main methods for establishing a lawn:
First, remove any traces of the old lawn. Use a sod cutter daily to cut away old grass and weeds at the base. Then, it’s time to turn the soil with a rotary tiller, adding sand and compost in successive layers to achieve the desired mix. Dig out rocks and roots – Using a pointed shovel, dig out all visible rocks and roots, including any stones that won’t fit through the tines of a garden rake. Fill holes and depressions, and dig out the topsoil from higher up. Use a rototiller to turn the soil until there are no large clumps or clods. Use a fiberglass shovel, which is less likely to split or snap than a wooden one, to dig out rocks. Add sand and compost – Cover the planting area with an inch (2.5 cm) of sand. Use a wheelbarrow to transport it to the site. Use a shovel to distribute it as evenly as possible. Use a rototiller to incorporate the sand into the topsoil. Now cover the area with an inch (2.5 cm) of compost, distributing it in the same manner as the sand. Again, use a rototiller to incorporate the compost into the soil and sand. Amend the soil – Adding lime, peat moss, or sulfur can balance the soil’s pH and add nutrients. Use a wheelbarrow to scoop up the peat moss. For lime or sulfur, use a walk-behind broadcast spreader set to the appropriate distribution rate. Spread the entire area, making sure you don’t miss any spots. Next, use a broadcast spreader to apply the starter fertilizer to the entire area. Make sure the spreader is adjusted to distribute at the rate listed on the fertilizer package.
Rake the Soil – Use a metal garden rake to carefully work the lime or sulfur and fertilizer into the top soil. Level the soil by raking it. Tip: Do not try to apply fertilizer, lime, or sulfur by hand or by mixing it in a spreader, as they must be applied at different, specific rates.
Spread Grass Seed – Evenly distribute the grass seed over the soil by shaking the handle of a handheld broadcast spreader. For larger lawns, use a walk-behind spreader. Be sure to apply an even coat of seed over the entire area.
Rake the Grass Seed – Take a plastic leaf rake, turn it upside down, and gently work the seed into the soil with the back of the tines. Make short, light strokes. Avoid long, sweeping motions, which can redistribute the seed and cause the grass to grow in uneven patches. TIP: Do not compact the seeds with a weighted roller, as it will create depressions that collect water.
Watering – Water lightly with a fan or oscillating sprinkler immediately after sowing. Set up one or more sprinkler heads, or move sprinklers around to ensure the entire area is wetted. For the first 8 to 10 days, water two or three times a day, but only for 5 to 10 minutes. Avoid overwatering, which may wash away the seeds. Once the grass germinates, water once a day for 15 to 30 minutes. It is usually best to water in the morning, when evaporation is less. Avoid watering in the evening, which can lead to fungal diseases. TIP: If you have a sprinkler system installed, make sure it is equipped with a rain sensor to prevent it from operating during a storm.