1. How to Cultivate a Tree Stump
The following is a detailed introduction to the steps for cultivating bonsai from seedlings.
▲In the early stages of seedling cultivation, the most important task is root pruning. Root pruning helps the plant adapt to a smaller, shallower ornamental pot and prepares it for later potting. Root pruning also stimulates the formation of more capillary roots, laying the foundation for a strong root system.
▲In addition to root pruning, another important task is shortening the main trunk. Bonsai is a miniature representation of nature, so dwarfing the stump is essential. Shortening the trunk promotes the growth of lateral branches, bringing them closer to the base of the trunk and providing more support options for future shaping.
▲After shortening the main trunk, the newly grown branches need to be further shortened and positioned to encourage the growth of more lateral buds.
▲After further pruning, more lateral buds will sprout. At this time, pinning is necessary to remove unnecessary buds.
▲After pruning, allow them to grow. This will not only increase the thickness of the lateral branches but also thicken the main trunk. It’s best to coil the primary branches before they become completely lignified.
▲After coiling the main trunk and primary branches, the basic structure of the bonsai is established. At this point, be sure to tip the branches to encourage the emergence of lateral buds.
▲Once the secondary branches begin to sprout, the primary branches will thicken faster. Repeat the previous steps, pruning and shortening the secondary branches to encourage the emergence of tertiary branches, gradually increasing the density of branches and the fullness of the crown.
▲Once all branches are mature, remove the wire and place in a suitable pot. The finished bonsai is now complete. Be careful not to rush to expose the root plate; you can gradually raise the roots each year as needed. The creation is at its peak when the gripping root plate is fully exposed.
2. How to Care for a Tree Stump
After purchasing a tree stump, you should first prepare it by trimming away any unnecessary branches and retaining any spare branches. Trim any existing wounds smooth, apply a healing agent, and prune the roots, removing any damaged or aging roots.
Not all tree stumps are fresh. Before planting, soak some less-than-fresh stumps in clean water for about four hours to rehydrate them. Remove and air dry them for later use.
Use sterilized soil or peat moss, add water, and mix into a slurry. Coat the roots of the tree stump with the slurry, let it dry slightly, and then pot it with potting soil.
After planting, be sure to water the stump thoroughly to establish the roots and tamp the potting soil firmly to prevent hollowing around the roots. If conditions permit, the planted tree stump can be placed in a warm room with high humidity for curing. High temperature and high humidity are favorable environments for budding. If this is not possible, wrap the stump and the pot with plastic wrap or household plastic wrap, covering at least two-thirds of the stump, and mist it frequently to maintain moisture. 3. How to Cultivate a Potted Tree Stump 1. Selecting a Pot: The shape of the pot can be tailored to the root shape of the plant. Clay pots, wooden boxes, and baskets can be used. The size of the container depends on the size of the stump. Drain holes should be provided at the bottom. For good ventilation, a layer of coarse sand can be placed at the bottom. Potting facilitates the combination of shaping and meticulous care. To increase the survival rate of potted plants, bury the pot and tree in the soil. This keeps the soil moist, promoting rooting and the emergence of branches and leaves. 2. Embryo Cultivation: Regardless of the propagation method used, whether the tree is grown or its roots are obtained from the wild, they must first be planted in the ground and cultivated for a period of time, known as “embryo cultivation.” During this period, the tree must be shaped and processed until its trunk, branches, and roots essentially meet the desired bonsai shape. Only then can it be potted. Potting without embryo cultivation will make it difficult to shape the tree. Furthermore, trees generally do not grow large after potting, making it difficult to cultivate large stumps. Embryo cultivation requires selecting a suitable location and soil based on the plant’s physiological and growth characteristics. The main tasks of embryo cultivation are watering and fertilizing. Watering should be done according to the season, ensuring neither insufficient waterlogging nor excessive waterlogging. Fertilization is crucial for healthy growth and rapid formation, but the timing, concentration, and frequency of fertilization must be controlled. Pruning, bud removal, soil loosening, weeding, and pest and disease control are also essential. The duration of the tree stump cultivation ranges from two to three years to over ten years, depending on the tree stump’s basic conditions, the tree species, and the desired shaping requirements. Cultivating a sapling into a large stump bonsai typically requires at least 15 years, and longer for conifers. Small bonsai trees, including old stumps from the mountains, typically take only three to five years to establish. Soil: Choose appropriate soil for planting based on the plant’s root type, desired growing environment, and climate. Treatment: Shape the tree appropriately, bending the main branches and pruning the smaller branches. Carving and chiseling may be performed to balance the main trunk and lateral branches, minimizing any artifacts. (Root treatment, branch treatment, and cut-off treatment are required.) Planting: Planting is typically done in spring, between February and March, before bud break. When planting, first cut off the taproot that is too long, leaving more lateral roots and fibrous roots, cover with fertile and loose soil, and fill the bottom of the pot with a hollow space to facilitate drainage.
4. How to cultivate old plant stumps
Maintenance method: During severe winter cold, it must be moved indoors to meet the temperature requirement of not less than five degrees. If the indoor temperature still cannot meet the requirement, it can be wrapped with plastic film, straw and other insulation materials. Regardless of the period, sufficient light conditions must be ensured, and regular indoor ventilation can ensure a stable winter.
5. How to cultivate tree stump seeds
1. Scientific treatment of seeds and seedlings: Before sowing, soak the gallnut seeds in warm water for 2-3 days, rub off the pulp, wash the seeds, and bury the seeds in the natural soil layer. After the seed embryos germinate, sow them in early or mid-May of the following year. When planting Chinese gallnuts, row spacing should be set at 15cm, and the soil should be covered to a depth of 2cm. After compacting, cover with grass to maintain moisture, and remove the grass after about four weeks. During the seedling stage, plant the seeds well, with a spacing of 5-7cm between each plant. 2. Prepare cuttings for seedling cultivation. In early spring, before the plants sprout, cut 15cm two-year-old branches as cuttings, with 2-3 nodes per cutting. Insert these cuttings into the seedbed and maintain a temperature of 25-30°C to promote rooting. Ensure moisture is maintained and provide shade under a shed. 3. Prepare the seedlings for transplanting. Transplant in spring or autumn, with a spacing of 70-90cm x 100-120cm between the rows. Then, dig the holes to a depth of 30-40cm and a diameter of 60cm. Finally, apply 3kg of fertilizer to each hole after transplanting to ensure adequate water for the plants.
6. Tree Stump Cultivation Techniques
1. Move the tree with soil into a pit and fill the pit with a root-promoting medium containing a rooting agent, auxin, vermiculite, and fulvic acid.
2. After the tree is planted, dig a hole in the ground around it.
3. After digging, air-dry the hole to dry the soil inside.
4. Fill the dried hole with rooting fertilizer, ensuring there are gaps inside.
7. How to Cultivate Old Stumps
Prune Podocarpus branches and leaves annually, removing small branches and retaining the main stem, to facilitate the cultivation of old trees.
8. How to Maintain a Tree Stump
I’m glad to answer this question. In life, we often use bonsai to appreciate ourselves. For example, conifer bonsai boasts a quaint, timeless form, robust vitality, and tolerance to cold and heat. Its low soil requirements make it a highly ornamental, long-lived species, beloved by many. However, when harvesting old conifer stumps, their sap is waxy and the bark is fragile and easily damaged. Once damaged, the wax seal hardens, hindering sap circulation and making it difficult to produce new buds, impacting survival rates. Many conifer bonsai enthusiasts find themselves left with nothing but regret. So, how should these bonsai be cared for? 1. Environmental Selection: Conifers and cypresses are not particularly demanding, typically preferring a location with ample sunlight, good air circulation, and a humid environment. When potting, ensure the base of the pot is elevated to facilitate ventilation and drainage. During high summer temperatures, place the pot in a cool, well-ventilated area, avoiding direct sunlight. Conifers and cypresses also need to hibernate during the winter. In areas with temperatures above -5°C, it can be placed outdoors for the winter. If it needs to be placed indoors for the winter, the temperature must not exceed 10°C, otherwise dormancy will be affected. In dry weather, sprinkle water frequently around the pot to increase the air humidity. 2. Watering Notes: Watering is very important and is one of the most important and frequent methods of tree stump bonsai management. Whether the tree stump is planted in a deep or shallow pot, the soil and water content are always limited. Therefore, it is necessary to water it regularly to replenish the water content. This will prevent the stump from withering due to lack of water. Therefore, during regular maintenance, it is important to closely observe the soil and water it according to the dryness and wetness of the soil to maintain soil moisture. However, it should not be overwatered. Excessive watering will cause the soil to be too wet for a long time, which can easily cause root rot due to lack of oxygen. The amount of watering also depends on the specific tree species, seasonal changes, and the temperature of the weather. Generally speaking, it’s best to water once in the morning and evening during summer or droughts. In spring and autumn, water daily or every other day. In spring, when the stump sprouts, water once in the morning and evening, depending on the situation. Watering is not necessary during the rainy season or rainy days, but drainage should be ensured. Sandy soils can be watered more frequently, while clay soils should be watered less frequently. You can also spray the leaves. Finding the right balance—neither too much nor too little—is crucial for enjoying bonsai.
3. Fertilization Management Considerations:
The soil in a stump bonsai is limited, and therefore nutrients are also limited. Plants require nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium for growth. Phosphorus fertilizer promotes the formation of flowers and fruits, while potassium fertilizer promotes stem and root growth. Therefore, careful fertilization is crucial. Due to the artistic nature of stump bonsai, which captures the essence of the small, rich, and rich, stump, fertilization should be avoided excessively or too frequently. It’s important to manage the amount and type of fertilizer, as well as the season. 4. Pruning and Maintenance Considerations: Bonsai trees are constantly growing. If left unchecked, their natural growth will inevitably affect their shape and lose their artistic value. Therefore, timely pruning is essential, with long branches cut short and close branches thinned out to maintain the tree’s graceful posture and proper proportions, lending it a more time-honored, wild charm. Appropriate modifications to the trunk can be made to compensate for the lack of age at the stump. Regular repotting is also essential. For conifers and cypresses, repotting is generally done once every four years, preferably between February and March. When repotting, remove some of the old soil from the root system, but be careful not to disturb the root ball. Then, clean the root system, remove any rotten branches, and appropriately shorten any overgrown fibrous roots. Finally, follow the repotting instructions. Finally, Dasheng believes that bonsai cultivation is actually not difficult. With a little care, you can cultivate your desired bonsai style. There’s no need to overly imitate others in bonsai styling. Bonsai is all about unique style, and the best is what you like. 9. How to Cultivate Stump Roots: Hello, I’m happy to answer your question and share a few rooting techniques for your reference. 1. Rooting Method: If the roots of a tree are visible above the pot surface, consider using a bonsai with an ancient dragon bell. This method can be used to gradually improve the potting system year after year. Deeply tether the upper roots and new roots below, and then raise the root system. Thin out and remove any claws, as appropriate. I also use a rooting technique, such as Panlong Cave, which displays thousands of roots each autumn. 2. Soil Rooting Method: A dry base is ideal for tamarisk germination, as tamarisk roots are prone to sprouting. The stump can be dried in the spring. Moisten the soil with air bubbles. After 2-3 years of new roots aging, remove the soil and shovel. Then, prune the tree to your desired appearance. 3. Sleeve Rooting Method: After the crown is formed, prune the crown to form some trees that are not prone to sprouting, such as pomegranates. Peel the bark off the stump for a week, then dry it for a week, then use a Coke bottle, a broth, or a shovel to prune the tree. Cover with soil, then water to keep it moist. After 2-3 years, remove the pot and open the roots, erase, and remove. The root head and tail drill, and fine roots fly, each holding the ground like a dragon’s claw.
10. How to Cultivate Tree Stump Plants
1. Before planting a tree, dig a pit. First, outline the pit according to the size of the tree. Generally, the pit size is 20 cm larger than the diameter of the tree’s roots. Both round and square shapes are acceptable. The depth of the pit should be determined according to the depth of the tree’s roots. Generally, 20-30 cm more than the original root depth is sufficient. For example, if the root depth is 20 cm, dig 40-50 cm.
2. Dig the pit vertically downward to the desired depth. Avoid digging into a pot-shaped pit with a larger top and a smaller bottom.
3. The planting method for bare-root trees is “three burying, two treading, and one lifting.” Specifically, add some fine-grained loam to the pit, place the seedling, and then add more soil, ensuring the soil covers the roots. Lift the seedling to allow the roots to spread out, keeping the original depth of the tree level with the ground. Tamp down the soil, and then bury the soil until it is level with the ground. Tamp down firmly. For trees with a soil ball, add a small amount of fine-grained loam first, place the ball, and keep the top of the ball slightly below the ground. Then cover the soil, tamping the edges around the ball as you go, taking care not to break it up.
11. Tree Stump Cultivation Process
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Choosing a Pot: The shape of the pot varies depending on the plant’s root shape. Clay pots, wooden boxes, and baskets can be used. The size of the container depends on the size of the stump. Drain holes should be left at the bottom. For good ventilation, add a layer of coarse sand. Potted plants facilitate the integration of shaping and meticulous care. To increase the survival rate of potted plants, bury the pot and tree in the soil to keep the soil moist, promoting rooting and the emergence of branches and leaves. 2. Embryo cultivation: Regardless of the propagation method used, whether the tree is grown from roots dug from the wild, it must first be planted in the ground and cultivated for a period of time, known as “embryo cultivation.” During this period, the tree must be shaped and processed until its trunk, branches, and roots meet the requirements for bonsai design. Only then can it be potted. Potting without embryo cultivation can create difficult shaping. Furthermore, trees generally do not grow quickly after potting, making it difficult to cultivate large stumps. Embryo cultivation requires selecting a suitable location and soil based on the plant’s physiological and growth characteristics. The main tasks of embryo cultivation are watering and fertilizing. Water the stump according to the season, ensuring both adequate watering and adequate overwatering. Fertilization is crucial for healthy tree growth and rapid formation, but the timing, concentration, and frequency of fertilization must be carefully controlled. Pruning, bud removal, soil loosening, weeding, and pest and disease control are also essential. The duration of the tree stump can range from two to three years to over ten years, depending on the tree’s basic conditions, the tree species, and the desired shaping. To cultivate a sapling into a large stump bonsai, it generally takes at least 15 years, and even longer for conifers and cypresses. Small bonsai trees, including old stumps from the mountains, generally take only three to five years to form. Soil: Choose appropriate soil for planting based on the plant’s root type, desired growing environment, and climate. Treatment: Shape the tree appropriately, bending the main branches and limbs, and carefully pruning the smaller branches and leaves. To achieve a balanced proportion between the main trunk and lateral branches, appropriate carving and chiseling may be performed, minimizing any artifacts. (Root treatment, branch treatment, and cut-off treatment are required.)
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Planting: Usually planted in spring, before bud break, between February and March. When planting, trim off any excess taproots, leaving more lateral and fibrous roots. Cover the pot with fertile, loose soil, and leave a hollow bottom for improved drainage.