1. Fuchsia Buds
Fuchsias are in bloom. Don’t make the mistake of doing these four “moves” to prevent their buds from falling and to ensure they’re covered in small lanterns.
Fuchsias are also very beautiful when they bloom in winter. Their flowers resemble small, upside-down lanterns, which is very beautiful. However, many flower lovers have trouble caring for fuchsias, and they often experience bud and bud dropout. What’s the reason? How can we prevent this?
The first situation is caused by low temperatures. Fuchsia is a typical southern flower. If the temperature drops below 10 degrees Celsius, it will stop growing or drop buds, leaves, and buds. Therefore, the temperature in the maintenance environment must be appropriate. At the very least, the lowest temperature should not drop below 10 degrees Celsius to avoid problems. If you want it to grow quickly, keep the temperature around 15 degrees Celsius to ensure normal growth and flowering without bud dropout.
The second situation is caused by insufficient light. Any plant growth cannot be separated from light, and the same is true for fuchsia. If it wants the flower buds to grow fast and normally, it must see sufficient light. If it is placed in a dark environment for a long time, its leaves will droop and the flower buds will fall off.
The third point is caused by improper watering. Fuchsia likes a humid environment and moist soil. Some flower lovers will water it frequently, which is inappropriate. We only need to spray it regularly under the premise of good light to increase the air humidity. We only need to ensure that the soil surface is dry for one or two centimeters and then water it thoroughly. Don’t let the potting soil be too dry or too wet. If the potting soil surface is still very wet and watered directly, its roots will inevitably rot. If the root system is rotten and the humidity is too high, it will cause the flower buds to fall and the leaves to turn black and wither.
The fourth point is caused by improper fertilizer. The temperature in winter is not very high, and the ventilation is relatively poor. We must remember not to apply too much fertilizer, and the concentration should not be too high. Too high a concentration of fertilizer will inevitably cause root burn. This is very critical. Under normal circumstances, it cannot grow and bloom without fertilizer. Without fertilizer, the flower buds will inevitably fall off and will inevitably fail to bloom. Therefore, if you raise it in winter, you must also supply it with fertilizer normally. As long as the flower buds are there, ensure at least two fertilizer supplements a month. Choose fertilizers with high phosphorus and potassium content, such as potassium dihydrogen phosphate, or you can use Huaduoduo No. 2. Only with sufficient fertilizer can it grow normally, bloom more, and have bright colors.
Flower bud drop on fuchsias is generally caused by these four reasons. Analyzing your situation can effectively resolve the problem. For regular care, give the plant plenty of sunlight and ensure adequate ventilation. Water thoroughly when the soil is dry two or three centimeters below the surface. Mist the plant to increase humidity, preferably around midday. This way, as long as the pot is not too large and the soil is well-ventilated, the fuchsia will continue to grow and bloom, displaying a beautiful display of red lanterns throughout the winter.
2. Why are fuchsia flower buds wilting and not blooming?
1. Over- or Under-Fertilization
Over- or under-fertilization can cause leaves to wilt and droop. When fertilizer is insufficient, increase the amount of fertilizer appropriately. Over-fertilization can easily cause fertilizer damage. Repotting depends on the root system and plant growth. Otherwise, water the plant moderately to promote fertilizer absorption. 2. Insufficient or Excessive Light Fuchsias thrive on light. Without adequate light for extended periods, they cannot synthesize the nutrients they need for growth, causing their leaves to wilt easily. This is especially true if placed indoors in a dark environment. Due to chlorosis, their delicate, fragile branches and leaves wilt easily in strong light and high temperatures. To address this, place the plant in an area with ample diffuse light. Since it is sensitive to strong light, increase the light exposure gradually. Fuchsias cannot tolerate strong light, and prolonged exposure to direct, intense light can cause leaf burns. When temperatures fall below 25°C in spring, autumn, and winter, place the potted plant in a sunny location with ample diffuse light. Reasons for Fuchsia Leaf Drooping 3. Soil Lacks Required Elements for Growth When the soil lacks soluble iron or magnesium, the plant struggles to grow normally, causing its leaves to wilt. You can spray the plant with diluted ferrous sulfate or magnesium sulfate, and also water with diluted potassium dihydrogen phosphate to help it recover.
4. Improper Soil Moisture
Overwatering causes waterlogging or excessively moist soil, hindering the plant’s roots from breathing properly and absorbing nutrients from the soil. To address this, move the fuchsia to a semi-shaded, airy, and cool location to accelerate soil drying. Watering should be moderate, and the soil should be well-drained. Shelter it from rainy days.
Insufficient watering can cause the plant to experience strong transpiration due to dry soil and insufficient humidity, causing the leaves to lose moisture and wilt and droop. Mist the plant and surrounding area with water daily in summer.
Fuchsias prefer acidic soil; alkaline soil can affect their growth. When watering, supplement with substances that adjust the soil’s pH, or simply replace the soil.
Reasons for fuchsia leaves to droop
5. Temperatures too high or too low
Fuchsias cannot tolerate high temperatures; their optimal temperature range is 15 to 28°C, and they need to overwinter at temperatures of at least 5°C. When the ambient temperature reaches 30°C, fuchsia growth slows. At 35°C, the plant easily reaches its tolerance limit, unable to respire and photosynthesize normally, eventually withering and dying.
6. Root Rot
During hot and rainy seasons, prolonged waterlogging, airtight soil, and a lack of ventilation can damage fuchsia roots, leading to root rot and wilting leaves. The plant should be removed from the pot and repotted.
3. Why are my fuchsia buds so small they’re already red?
In December in Tianbei New District, while the outside was blanketed in snow and freezing, the greenhouse was steaming and warm like spring.
The fuchsia flowers are in bloom, and their appearance is unique. The flower heads are facing downwards, as if they are hanging upside down, but this does not affect the beauty of the flowers at all.
The light pink buds are also very cute. Some are big, some are small. Some wrap themselves tightly, while some have cracks, as if they are afraid of the heat, attracting people’s attention.
The fuchsia flowers are in bloom, and their stems are red and green. There are four sepals on the top of the flowers, stretching out to the surroundings.
The four petals below are like shy little girls, who dare not stretch out, but hug each other, as if they are old friends who have not seen each other for many years.
In the middle of the small flower, there are nine pistils, growing shoulder to shoulder. The breeze blows slowly over, and it sways vigorously.
A small flower consists of three parts: the “flower core, petals, and receptacle”. The golden flower cores look like small brushes or strings of small firecrackers, alternating between yellow and green, very cute.
When the fuchsia flower blooms, it has a very rare two-color, rose-red petals, layered one on top of the other, just like wearing a multi-layered skirt.
It is covered with a layer of purple petals. Compared with the rounded rose-red petals, the purple petals are more slender and there are fewer of them, with only a few petals stretching outward.
But they are not like the rose-red petals, which are layered and hugged together, and are only slightly raised; the stamens are thin and long, and the pistil is the longest, at two or three centimeters. The stamens are relatively short, surrounding the pistil.
When the fuchsia flower blooms, the whole flower looks like a unique and beautiful lantern. The stamens are the tassels under the lantern, and the petals are the two-color lantern body, which is very beautiful.
The branches of the fuchsia are very thin, and it seems that they will break if touched, but the branches and leaves are very dense, densely packed, and very numerous.
The leaves are divided into large leaves, small leaves, and medium-sized leaves. The large leaves are dark green, the medium-sized leaves are lighter in color, and the small leaves are light and tender.
When people get closer and take a closer look, the veins of the branches and leaves are very clear. The flowers of the fuchsia have a charming fragrance that makes people feel relaxed and refreshed.
Fuchsia is also known as “lantern flower, hanging bell crabapple”. There are about 100 species, and there are many horticultural varieties. There are more than 20 common ones, all of which can be cultivated for viewing.
There are single petals and double petals, and the flower colors include “white, pink, orange, rose purple” and eggplant purple. Common varieties include “large-flowered fuchsia, red-flowered fuchsia, large-leafed fuchsia, corymbose fuchsia, long-tubed fuchsia, white-calyx fuchsia, creeping fuchsia, short-tubed fuchsia, and three-leafed fuchsia”.
In addition to its ornamental value, fuchsia is also a traditional Chinese medicinal material with the functions of promoting blood circulation, removing blood stasis, cooling blood and dispelling wind. It tastes pungent and sour, is slightly cold in nature, and enters the liver and pericardium meridians. It has the functions of promoting blood circulation, removing blood stasis, cooling blood and dispelling wind. It is mainly used to treat “irregular menstruation, amenorrhea, postpartum breast swelling, skin itching, acne” and other diseases.
When the fuchsia flowers bloom, they look like upside-down red dots, with dewdrops on them and they are sentimental. The emerald green trees face the morning sun, and the dewdrops on the flowers are bright and fragrant.
When the fuchsia flowers bloom, you will be intoxicated by the flowers, and the faces of people and peach blossoms will complement each other in red. Golden robes dance to the music, and a delicate fragrance fills the flower room.
The fuchsia blossoms, resplendent and magnificent, draped in green and crimson, with rich, vibrant foliage and delicate, delicate, graceful petals.
The fuchsia blossoms sway in the breeze, shimmering in golden light. Each one is unique and alluring, picturesque in its vibrant colors and unique shapes, captivating and captivating.
4. Why are fuchsia buds wilting and failing to bloom?
It’s normal for fuchsia flowers to become smaller and smaller, and they won’t bloom again until midsummer.
How to care for fuchsia during summer dormancy: First, as the temperature gradually rises, the fuchsia plant will gradually enter dormancy, which will deepen further. Generally, when the temperature rises to around 25°C, you should stop fertilizing and reduce watering. When the temperature reaches 30°C, the plant will go dormant. At this time, it should be placed in a well-ventilated, cool location for maintenance, and watering should be controlled. However, spray water to lower the temperature and increase the humidity. If the temperature rises to 35°C, it is best to place the plant in an air-conditioned room, otherwise it will easily die from the heat.
5. What does the bud of a fuchsia look like?
The seeds are relatively large and covered with a grayish outer layer.
Fuchsia can be sown in spring and autumn to increase the germination rate. Choose high-quality seeds that are plump, full, and healthy. Soak them in warm water to fully absorb the moisture. Remove the seeds, wrap them in moist gauze, and place them in a warm environment until they turn white. Prepare loose, breathable sandy soil, fill the pot with the soil, and evenly sow the seeds in the soil. Water regularly to keep the soil moist to promote germination and growth.
6. All the buds on my fuchsia are falling off.
Fuchsias prefer sunlight and moist soil. Waterlogging or insufficient sunlight will cause yellowing leaves and bud drop. When grown in greenhouses, the air is humid and the leaves are thick and delicate. After home cultivation, the air becomes dry, and some yellowing leaves fall off as the plant’s own protection. Leaf drop increases ventilation and light transmission between branches and leaves. Keep the soil moist, avoiding alternating wet and dry conditions. Provide ample sunlight. Bud drop will improve. Avoid direct sunlight in summer, keep fuchsias cool and shaded, and avoid rain. This way, they will bloom year-round.
7. Why have all my fuchsia buds fallen off?
The main causes are lack of water, fertilizer, poor ventilation, or pests and diseases.
8. Why are fuchsia buds falling?
This may be due to insufficient light. If placed in the shade for a long time, it can easily cause the buds to fall. It should be maintained in a location with diffused light.
Over-frequent watering can cause waterlogging, curling leaves, and flower drop. Stop watering and place it in a shaded, ventilated location. Wait for the soil to dry before resuming normal care. Water as needed, “watering when dry and watering when wet,” and water thoroughly once.
9. Fuchsia buds falling from the neck
This is primarily a symptom caused by fuchsia black stem disease.
”Black stem disease”, also known as “black heart disease”, the field symptoms are that the upper end of the main stem of the bell flower stem and the interior and exterior of its peduncles turn brown, and some peduncles have a white mold layer growing on the surface; the leaves and buds at the top turn black and fall off; the middle and lower parts of the main stem of the peduncles are hollow, but look normal; in severe cases, the peduncles of the peduncles turn brown and necrotic, and the top of the flower ball turns brown and rots; in some severe fields, the leaves of the plants become smaller, thicker, and more brittle, and the plants have increased side branches.
The pH value of the fields where the “black heart disease” of bell flowers occurs is above 7.0-7.5. Some growers reported that foggy weather or rain can induce or aggravate the “black heart disease” of broccoli; the occurrence varies among different varieties of bell flowers, and the disease is more serious in those with high nitrogen fertilizer application and tender green plant growth; it is more serious in spring and in fields with continuous cropping.
Prevention and control methods:
1. Improve the soil, lower the soil pH to below 7.0, and increase the soil organic matter content.
2. Scientific and reasonable crop rotation to avoid unreasonable continuous cropping of boron-requiring crops.
3. Increase the application of boron fertilizer by adding 0.5% borax to organic fertilizer as base fertilizer, 1.5-2.0 kg per mu; then use 0.3% borax diluted solution as foliar fertilizer 2-3 times after the rosette stage.
4. In the early stage of the disease, you can mainly use 500 times solution of 58% metalaxyl mangozinc wettable powder, 1000 times solution of 69% anke mangozinc wettable powder, or 600 times solution of 64% chlorpyrifos, or 600 times solution of 58% remidor. Once every 7 to 10 days, control 2 to 3 times in a row and pay attention to the safe interval.
10. There are many reasons for the curling of fuchsia buds, both physiological and pathological.
I. Physiological reasons may be due to
(1) Excessive watering. The soil in the pot is too wet for a long time, resulting in lack of oxygen in the soil, causing local fibrous root decay, hindering normal breathing and absorption of water and nutrients, and causing the leaves to turn yellow and fall off. After being affected, the young leaves first turn light yellow, and then the old leaves also slowly turn yellow. Watering should be controlled immediately, fertilization should be stopped, and the soil should be loosened frequently to ensure good soil ventilation.
(2) Drought and dehydration. Leaving the flowers to be watered or watered only halfway for a long time (i.e., wet on the top and dry on the bottom) affects nutrient absorption and can easily cause the leaves to become dull and lusterless, and the leaves to wilt and droop. First, the old leaves at the bottom age and gradually turn yellow and fall off from the bottom to the top. At this time, a small amount of watering and spraying is required to gradually recover before returning to normal watering.
(3) Long-term lack of fertilizer. If ammonia fertilizer is not applied for a long time or the pot and soil are not changed, the soil will lack nitrogen and other nutrients, resulting in weak branches and leaves, thin and yellow leaves. It is necessary to promptly overturn the pot, replace it with new loose and fertile cultivation soil, and gradually increase the application of thin and well-rotted liquid fertilizer or compound flower fertilizer.
(4) Overfertilization. If too much fertilizer is applied, the new leaves will be thick and uneven, and the old leaves will dry and yellow and fall off. Fertilization should be stopped immediately, and the amount of watering should be increased to allow the fertilizer to flow out from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot. Alternatively, the pot should be overturned immediately, and the soil should be washed with water before replanting.
(5) Extreme heat. If flowers that prefer coolness (such as cyclamen, fuchsia, and begonia) are placed in a high temperature and exposed to strong sunlight in summer, it is very easy to cause the tips and edges of young leaves to dry out, or the leaves to turn yellow and fall off. They need to be moved to a well-ventilated and cool place in time.
(6) Strong sexual stimulation. When controlling pests and diseases, using too high a concentration of pesticides, or being polluted by toxic gases in the atmosphere, or suddenly watering with cold water when the temperature is high, can easily cause the tips or surface of the leaves to turn yellow and dry, or even the entire plant to wither. Therefore, attention should be paid to the rational use of pesticides and efforts should be made to eliminate air pollution sources. Avoid watering flowers with cold water around noon in midsummer.
(7) Caused by repotting. Repotting will basically cause some damage to flowers, but it is temporary and will heal after a while. 2. Pathological causes include
(1) Leaf spot disease caused by fungi and other pathogens, which can easily cause partial necrosis of leaves, resulting in yellow spots or patches. In severe cases, the entire leaf will wither and fall off;
(2) After being infected by mosaic virus, the leaves will show yellow and green patches;
(3) When attacked by scale insects, red spiders, etc., the leaves will also turn partially yellow and dry, or even the entire leaf will wither and fall off. All should be sprayed with pesticides in a timely manner.